I know I had promised to write about Sri Lanka next but I really wanted to write this first. This topic came in my head last night in bed and I thought the timing is perfect as this is the peak season for Goa tourism. I want everyone who reads this and his heading to Goa soon to discover the real and original flavours of Goa. The motive of writing this is because I know that a lot of people love Goa obviously for the beaches and the cheap booze but some of us love Goa for of its food. Most people who visit Goa eat in shacks that are clustered along the beach because it feels wonderful, right? The food that you taste in these shacks however are no where near the real smell or flavours of actual Goan cuisine. I want you all to read this so that the next time you are going back home from Goa you actually feel like you have tasted GOA!
I have been travelling to Goa ever since I brought in the new millennium with my family in 2000. For me it was love at first sight. Goa to me is like a close relative who if I don't visit often I miss dearly and long to see! It is a relative whose house you look forward going to because you know that every meal here is simply heavenly. I am Bengali by birth and I was born to eat fish out of the water! Goa has a lot of water everywhere, which means there is a lot of fish for me to eat. I hope that helps you understand my connection with the place.
Coming back to the food of Goa. I am going to list down my favourite places to eat when in Goa. Most of the places I am going to mention are really very reasonable price wise but equally steep flavour wise. The shacks are usually expensive as they are into business seasonally and their rents are pretty high. Family owned places are the places one should eat in. Not taking away from the fact that there are a couple of shacks that are very good. Goan food is typically very strong in flavour and each dish has its own characteristic. Ingredients consist mainly of a lot of fish, pork, chicken and various sea foods. There is a lot for vegetarians too but not the quintessential Indian comfort vegetarian food. Goan cuisine has a lot of influences from a lot of places but mainly Portuguese. So without wasting much time let me introduce the fist and my personal favourite of Goa….
1. VIVA PANJIM - Situated in the capital city of Goa, Viva Panjim is my favourite place to eat in Goa. It may be a little hard to find if you aren't on GPS but ask the locals for Fontainhas and they will direct you exactly here. Fontainhas used to be the Latin side of Panjim and this locality is famous by this name. To make it a little more easier, it is in the same lane as the Mario Miranda store. Viva has been winning the Times Food Guide award for years now. The locals love this place and only the real foodies find this one. A family owned shop inside their family bungalow, Viva Panjim is as authentic as it gets. They have the worlds best Xacutti, Vindaloo and Goan curries. This place has a separate pork menu. Their is a small air conditioned seating inside too. The beer is as cheap as Rs 40 a pint. Try everything here, the sausage curry, sausage pulao, chicken xacutti, pork vindaloo, bhindi crispy fry, prawn curry and rice, Goan chicken chilly, etc etc. Just go crazy and eat till your stomach blasts. The place is open till midnight only and the last order is 11.30pm. Viva is open for lunch too. A meal for two here would cost you around Rs 600 (even if you drink a lot). After a huge meal here my advice is take a walk along the Fontainhas because it is a beautiful locality and people actually pay money for walking tours to see this locality.
2. MARTIN'S CORNER - My next stop is a little far and is situated in between no where. Martin's Corner is in the middle of North and South Goa, very close to the airport. You either know this place or you have to GPS it. You realise the importance of GPS in your life when you travel across India and are hunting for places! The locality is known as Betalbatim Salcette and if you just look it up online you will get all details about this place. The ride is long and tiring but the food here more than makes up for it. The place is very famous with tourists and it is packed throughout the day. They have live music and no air conditioning. The menu is elaborate and one gets a wide variety of choices. They serve excellent desserts too. The king fish fry Goan style is a must try. This place is not as cheap and a meal would easily cost around Rs 1500 for two (considering you are moderate drinkers).
3. ANANDASHRAM RESTAURANT - How many of you have tried Goa Bhawan food in Mumbai? If you like the food there then you will love this place. A small little eating joint in the heart of Panjim where a meal for two will not cost you more than Rs 300. Anandashram doesn't serve alcohol and it is more of a thali place. Very famous with the locals and foreign tourist. You get the perfect Bombil Fry and Kokum Sherbet here. The thali is elaborate with a lot of different item on your plate but it shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes to lick the plate clean. The thali typically consist of rice, dal, fried fish, shrimp curry, fish paste, crab or fish curry and kokum sherbet. You can order extra fried pomfret or prawns to make the thali even more grand. They also serve vegetarian thalis but if you essentially a vegetarian than avoid going here because the fish smell is very strong. I know this because my wife is not comfortable eating fish and she was struggling to eat here. To reach here you have to take a left from MG Road and it is bang opposite Hotel Venite.
4. RITZ CLASSIC - This was recommend to me by a good friend who lives in Panjim itself and I so thank him for this one. Completely air conditioned and is packed throughout the day. A big favourite of the locals and hosts almost all birthday lunches in Panjim, Ritz Classic is the best family restaurant in Panjim. This place offers a wide variety of cuisines from Punjabi to Chinese but the one thing that you must eat here is their Goan Fish Thali! The thali is as cheap as Rs 99 and comes with rice, a fried pomfret, dried fish paste, dal, prawn or crab curry and fish with vegetables! Everywhere you look within the restaurant you will find the thali. Every little element on the thali is just perfect. My suggestion to fellow travellers is that if you have a bus to catch from Panjim then eat your dinner here and board your bus because after this meal you will sleep like a baby! This place I very highly recommend and please just try the thali…trust me on this one.
5. ELECTRIC CATS - Situated on Baga Road, visible from the entrance of the road that leads to Tito's; Electric Cats used to be highly recommended by Lonely Planet in their hay days. I first ate here in 2008 but even when I went there last year I was pleased that they have maintained their quality and quantity. Earlier they used to have a huge place with two floors and live music but since the time the owners changed and the location changed the place is not as lively or happening as before. However their curries still remain to die for. They make everything from steaks, sizzles, shashlik's, fried chicken to Chinese and Indian food but their best is prawn and crab curry. They make a wonderful crab tandoori which goes so well with your chilled beer. A meal for two here would cost around Rs 500 and they have no air conditioned section.
6. HOTEL FIDALGO - Fidalgo is again situated in Panjim on June Road and is a wonderful breakfast place. Their is a cute little cafe situated on your left as you enter the hotel called Aunty Maria Bakery and Confectionary. This place serves wonderful omelettes and is very popular with the locals too. Everyone is heard ordering some or the other kind of omelette. As the name suggests they also have a lot of baked goods and their coffee is excellent too. My wife introduced me to this place and I thank her for that. Now I have to do breakfast here every time that I am in Goa. The omelettes get loaded with bacon, ham, cheese, veggies, mash potato, tomato and is served with toast and hash brown. It is the summary of Goan food in an omelette. The cafe is completely air conditioned and a breakfast for two would cost around Rs 400.
7. INFANTARIA - Situated on Baga Road just outside the exit of Calangute beach this is another of my favourite breakfast place. They are an all day diner with the whole package under one roof. They serve amazing breakfast, they have a bakery attached, wonderful confectionery, their is alcohol, good coffee and sumptuous lunch and dinners! During season time they add live music on the first floor. They have wonderful and friendly staff too. Sit here and have a wonderful Goan breakfast comprising of sausages, some salami with eggs, coffee and maybe end with a Russian marble cake! Sounds wonderful doesn't it, well it is. I can vouch for their food otherwise too if you decide to go here for lunch or dinner. The place is not air conditioned and breakfast for two would be around Rs 300.
8. BOB'S INN - A very cosy place situated in Candolim which brims with life during season time. The entire place is filled with antiques and has a very earthy look to it. I first came here in 2006 and when I went there last year I felt no time lapse. True authentic Goan food and one must try everything that says Bob's Special! If its a Bob's Special chicken you try it, Bob's Special prawns you try it and trust me you won't be disappointed. They know their curries and they serve them well. Lot of people have found Fisherman's Cove which is situated just a little ahead to be better but the two times that I went there I was served horrible food which lacked on flavour and the very sight of the dish made me realise the chefs disinterest to cook it. The alcohol is cheaper in Bob's Inn too and a meal for two would cost around Rs 600 and the place doesn't need air conditioning.
9. BRITTO'S - This is the first shack and restaurant by the beach that I love personally. This place is terribly expensive and a meal for two would cost around Rs 1500 but even then the food and the setting makes up for it. These guys arrange candle lit tables on the beach for you too. I really don't need to tell the location of Britto's because anyone in Goa knows this place but just in case you didn't, it is situated right on Baga beach. They have a large sea food display counter and you could choose what you want to eat on any given day. The place is always swarming with people and it is huge. Their menu is elaborate and one has a wide variety of choices here. Feel free to try whatever because everything here is well cooked. Try picking up a red snapper and asking them to grill it for you. Things from their grill is usually very very tasty. Lovely place to sit and spend some quality time.
10. THE BIG FISH RESTAURANT - Now this one is the second and last shack of Goa that i like. Situated in South Goa's Palolem beach this place serves great sea food platters. They are situated on my favourite beach in Goa and the entire ambience just works. They serve wonderful sea food which again you can choose from a live counter and then they serve it with rice and salad. I have had the sea food platter, lobster platter and squids here and let me tell you Palolem couldn't get better than this. They even put out an open grill on the beach during season times and the smell just gets you walking in to this place. The service is wonderful and the staff friendly too. A meal for two would cost you around Rs 600 and the place absolutely doesn't need air conditioning.
11. THE VERANDAH - This place I accidentally discovered while searching for Viva Panjim. This restaurant is also situated in the Fontainhas area in the capital city and is lodged in a heritage building. The feeling of sitting here is absolutely magical. This place gives you a very European feel and the unique thing about this place is that almost all table open up to a balcony. The ceiling is almost 30 feet high, there are these old humongous fans, smell of old furniture prevails, colonial architecture and I could go on and on. The kitchen serves out some traditional Goan food which doesn't match to the standards of Viva but is good enough. The vindaloo and fish curry is a must try here. This place is perfect for an evening drink and a long conversation. A meal for two would cost around Rs 450 here.
12. QUARTERDECK - Second last stop on my tour is this lovely place situated on the banks of the river Mandovi. Again a place introduced to me by my lovely wife. The location of this place is excellent and I am sure that most of you have crossed this place without even realising it. The place is beautiful by both day and night. The food is excellent here and don't try anything else but their Goan cuisine and tandoor items. Ask them for a fresh catch of crab and make them cook it in their butter garlic style. The crab meat will melt in your mouth! Also their prawn biryani is excellent, very different from most prawn biryanis one has tasted and the quantity is good enough for two. Sit here in the evening, sip some beer and order a crab in garlic butter. Perfect way to end a day in Goa. Cost for a meal for 2 would be around Rs 500. Also if you do get bored then the casinos are just beside you, hop on!
13. CAFE DE GOA - I saved the best for the last! This is situated on your way from Mapusa to Baga just as you take the right from the main road. Very easy to miss but trust me don't. This is the most perfect cafe that I have found in Goa. So the speciality of this place is that they run their own organic farm, produce their own organic ingredients, cook it in their own kitchen and they even allow you to buy stuff from their all organic pantry! What more could you ask for right? The menu is not very elaborate but everything on it is organic and superb in taste. Try their chicken cutlets, various salads, Russian cake, sandwiches, just try everything. You have to try their iced teas because it couldn't get fresher than that. Also the way they serve it is amazing. They put an actual piece of sugarcane for you to stir in all the ingredients yourself for the iced tea. This place is an experience. Would cost you somewhere between Rs 200 - 400 for a meal but it is totally worth it. Please do go and take a look in their toilet, its fascinating!
These were the 13 places that came to my mind today and I think it is safe for me to say that the real food of Goa lies in the streets of Panjim. There was this place called Hotel Venite in Panjim which I couldn't try as it was shut both the times I went but it was highly recommended by a friend. In Panjim one doesn't end up paying as much for their food as the do in the beach shacks. All my prices include alcohol and that is if you are not an alcoholic. I would sincerely ask all those who read this to give me feedbacks and suggest names of more places that i should try. Actually the next time might be very soon because writing this I started missing Goa. Another place I highly recommend in Panjim is Sher e Punjab! I didn't put it here on this list because it doesn't serve Goan cuisine but their food is good. There is also a little surprise for people from Kolkata here, if you miss the egg dal tadka from the streets of Kolkata then remember you get it in Sher e Punjab! It is not as good but something is better than nothing right! Will end this here but please feel free to suggest me more places that you feel serve Goa on a plate!
I have been travelling to Goa ever since I brought in the new millennium with my family in 2000. For me it was love at first sight. Goa to me is like a close relative who if I don't visit often I miss dearly and long to see! It is a relative whose house you look forward going to because you know that every meal here is simply heavenly. I am Bengali by birth and I was born to eat fish out of the water! Goa has a lot of water everywhere, which means there is a lot of fish for me to eat. I hope that helps you understand my connection with the place.
Coming back to the food of Goa. I am going to list down my favourite places to eat when in Goa. Most of the places I am going to mention are really very reasonable price wise but equally steep flavour wise. The shacks are usually expensive as they are into business seasonally and their rents are pretty high. Family owned places are the places one should eat in. Not taking away from the fact that there are a couple of shacks that are very good. Goan food is typically very strong in flavour and each dish has its own characteristic. Ingredients consist mainly of a lot of fish, pork, chicken and various sea foods. There is a lot for vegetarians too but not the quintessential Indian comfort vegetarian food. Goan cuisine has a lot of influences from a lot of places but mainly Portuguese. So without wasting much time let me introduce the fist and my personal favourite of Goa….
1. VIVA PANJIM - Situated in the capital city of Goa, Viva Panjim is my favourite place to eat in Goa. It may be a little hard to find if you aren't on GPS but ask the locals for Fontainhas and they will direct you exactly here. Fontainhas used to be the Latin side of Panjim and this locality is famous by this name. To make it a little more easier, it is in the same lane as the Mario Miranda store. Viva has been winning the Times Food Guide award for years now. The locals love this place and only the real foodies find this one. A family owned shop inside their family bungalow, Viva Panjim is as authentic as it gets. They have the worlds best Xacutti, Vindaloo and Goan curries. This place has a separate pork menu. Their is a small air conditioned seating inside too. The beer is as cheap as Rs 40 a pint. Try everything here, the sausage curry, sausage pulao, chicken xacutti, pork vindaloo, bhindi crispy fry, prawn curry and rice, Goan chicken chilly, etc etc. Just go crazy and eat till your stomach blasts. The place is open till midnight only and the last order is 11.30pm. Viva is open for lunch too. A meal for two here would cost you around Rs 600 (even if you drink a lot). After a huge meal here my advice is take a walk along the Fontainhas because it is a beautiful locality and people actually pay money for walking tours to see this locality.
2. MARTIN'S CORNER - My next stop is a little far and is situated in between no where. Martin's Corner is in the middle of North and South Goa, very close to the airport. You either know this place or you have to GPS it. You realise the importance of GPS in your life when you travel across India and are hunting for places! The locality is known as Betalbatim Salcette and if you just look it up online you will get all details about this place. The ride is long and tiring but the food here more than makes up for it. The place is very famous with tourists and it is packed throughout the day. They have live music and no air conditioning. The menu is elaborate and one gets a wide variety of choices. They serve excellent desserts too. The king fish fry Goan style is a must try. This place is not as cheap and a meal would easily cost around Rs 1500 for two (considering you are moderate drinkers).
3. ANANDASHRAM RESTAURANT - How many of you have tried Goa Bhawan food in Mumbai? If you like the food there then you will love this place. A small little eating joint in the heart of Panjim where a meal for two will not cost you more than Rs 300. Anandashram doesn't serve alcohol and it is more of a thali place. Very famous with the locals and foreign tourist. You get the perfect Bombil Fry and Kokum Sherbet here. The thali is elaborate with a lot of different item on your plate but it shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes to lick the plate clean. The thali typically consist of rice, dal, fried fish, shrimp curry, fish paste, crab or fish curry and kokum sherbet. You can order extra fried pomfret or prawns to make the thali even more grand. They also serve vegetarian thalis but if you essentially a vegetarian than avoid going here because the fish smell is very strong. I know this because my wife is not comfortable eating fish and she was struggling to eat here. To reach here you have to take a left from MG Road and it is bang opposite Hotel Venite.
4. RITZ CLASSIC - This was recommend to me by a good friend who lives in Panjim itself and I so thank him for this one. Completely air conditioned and is packed throughout the day. A big favourite of the locals and hosts almost all birthday lunches in Panjim, Ritz Classic is the best family restaurant in Panjim. This place offers a wide variety of cuisines from Punjabi to Chinese but the one thing that you must eat here is their Goan Fish Thali! The thali is as cheap as Rs 99 and comes with rice, a fried pomfret, dried fish paste, dal, prawn or crab curry and fish with vegetables! Everywhere you look within the restaurant you will find the thali. Every little element on the thali is just perfect. My suggestion to fellow travellers is that if you have a bus to catch from Panjim then eat your dinner here and board your bus because after this meal you will sleep like a baby! This place I very highly recommend and please just try the thali…trust me on this one.
5. ELECTRIC CATS - Situated on Baga Road, visible from the entrance of the road that leads to Tito's; Electric Cats used to be highly recommended by Lonely Planet in their hay days. I first ate here in 2008 but even when I went there last year I was pleased that they have maintained their quality and quantity. Earlier they used to have a huge place with two floors and live music but since the time the owners changed and the location changed the place is not as lively or happening as before. However their curries still remain to die for. They make everything from steaks, sizzles, shashlik's, fried chicken to Chinese and Indian food but their best is prawn and crab curry. They make a wonderful crab tandoori which goes so well with your chilled beer. A meal for two here would cost around Rs 500 and they have no air conditioned section.
6. HOTEL FIDALGO - Fidalgo is again situated in Panjim on June Road and is a wonderful breakfast place. Their is a cute little cafe situated on your left as you enter the hotel called Aunty Maria Bakery and Confectionary. This place serves wonderful omelettes and is very popular with the locals too. Everyone is heard ordering some or the other kind of omelette. As the name suggests they also have a lot of baked goods and their coffee is excellent too. My wife introduced me to this place and I thank her for that. Now I have to do breakfast here every time that I am in Goa. The omelettes get loaded with bacon, ham, cheese, veggies, mash potato, tomato and is served with toast and hash brown. It is the summary of Goan food in an omelette. The cafe is completely air conditioned and a breakfast for two would cost around Rs 400.
7. INFANTARIA - Situated on Baga Road just outside the exit of Calangute beach this is another of my favourite breakfast place. They are an all day diner with the whole package under one roof. They serve amazing breakfast, they have a bakery attached, wonderful confectionery, their is alcohol, good coffee and sumptuous lunch and dinners! During season time they add live music on the first floor. They have wonderful and friendly staff too. Sit here and have a wonderful Goan breakfast comprising of sausages, some salami with eggs, coffee and maybe end with a Russian marble cake! Sounds wonderful doesn't it, well it is. I can vouch for their food otherwise too if you decide to go here for lunch or dinner. The place is not air conditioned and breakfast for two would be around Rs 300.
8. BOB'S INN - A very cosy place situated in Candolim which brims with life during season time. The entire place is filled with antiques and has a very earthy look to it. I first came here in 2006 and when I went there last year I felt no time lapse. True authentic Goan food and one must try everything that says Bob's Special! If its a Bob's Special chicken you try it, Bob's Special prawns you try it and trust me you won't be disappointed. They know their curries and they serve them well. Lot of people have found Fisherman's Cove which is situated just a little ahead to be better but the two times that I went there I was served horrible food which lacked on flavour and the very sight of the dish made me realise the chefs disinterest to cook it. The alcohol is cheaper in Bob's Inn too and a meal for two would cost around Rs 600 and the place doesn't need air conditioning.
9. BRITTO'S - This is the first shack and restaurant by the beach that I love personally. This place is terribly expensive and a meal for two would cost around Rs 1500 but even then the food and the setting makes up for it. These guys arrange candle lit tables on the beach for you too. I really don't need to tell the location of Britto's because anyone in Goa knows this place but just in case you didn't, it is situated right on Baga beach. They have a large sea food display counter and you could choose what you want to eat on any given day. The place is always swarming with people and it is huge. Their menu is elaborate and one has a wide variety of choices here. Feel free to try whatever because everything here is well cooked. Try picking up a red snapper and asking them to grill it for you. Things from their grill is usually very very tasty. Lovely place to sit and spend some quality time.
10. THE BIG FISH RESTAURANT - Now this one is the second and last shack of Goa that i like. Situated in South Goa's Palolem beach this place serves great sea food platters. They are situated on my favourite beach in Goa and the entire ambience just works. They serve wonderful sea food which again you can choose from a live counter and then they serve it with rice and salad. I have had the sea food platter, lobster platter and squids here and let me tell you Palolem couldn't get better than this. They even put out an open grill on the beach during season times and the smell just gets you walking in to this place. The service is wonderful and the staff friendly too. A meal for two would cost you around Rs 600 and the place absolutely doesn't need air conditioning.
11. THE VERANDAH - This place I accidentally discovered while searching for Viva Panjim. This restaurant is also situated in the Fontainhas area in the capital city and is lodged in a heritage building. The feeling of sitting here is absolutely magical. This place gives you a very European feel and the unique thing about this place is that almost all table open up to a balcony. The ceiling is almost 30 feet high, there are these old humongous fans, smell of old furniture prevails, colonial architecture and I could go on and on. The kitchen serves out some traditional Goan food which doesn't match to the standards of Viva but is good enough. The vindaloo and fish curry is a must try here. This place is perfect for an evening drink and a long conversation. A meal for two would cost around Rs 450 here.
12. QUARTERDECK - Second last stop on my tour is this lovely place situated on the banks of the river Mandovi. Again a place introduced to me by my lovely wife. The location of this place is excellent and I am sure that most of you have crossed this place without even realising it. The place is beautiful by both day and night. The food is excellent here and don't try anything else but their Goan cuisine and tandoor items. Ask them for a fresh catch of crab and make them cook it in their butter garlic style. The crab meat will melt in your mouth! Also their prawn biryani is excellent, very different from most prawn biryanis one has tasted and the quantity is good enough for two. Sit here in the evening, sip some beer and order a crab in garlic butter. Perfect way to end a day in Goa. Cost for a meal for 2 would be around Rs 500. Also if you do get bored then the casinos are just beside you, hop on!
13. CAFE DE GOA - I saved the best for the last! This is situated on your way from Mapusa to Baga just as you take the right from the main road. Very easy to miss but trust me don't. This is the most perfect cafe that I have found in Goa. So the speciality of this place is that they run their own organic farm, produce their own organic ingredients, cook it in their own kitchen and they even allow you to buy stuff from their all organic pantry! What more could you ask for right? The menu is not very elaborate but everything on it is organic and superb in taste. Try their chicken cutlets, various salads, Russian cake, sandwiches, just try everything. You have to try their iced teas because it couldn't get fresher than that. Also the way they serve it is amazing. They put an actual piece of sugarcane for you to stir in all the ingredients yourself for the iced tea. This place is an experience. Would cost you somewhere between Rs 200 - 400 for a meal but it is totally worth it. Please do go and take a look in their toilet, its fascinating!
These were the 13 places that came to my mind today and I think it is safe for me to say that the real food of Goa lies in the streets of Panjim. There was this place called Hotel Venite in Panjim which I couldn't try as it was shut both the times I went but it was highly recommended by a friend. In Panjim one doesn't end up paying as much for their food as the do in the beach shacks. All my prices include alcohol and that is if you are not an alcoholic. I would sincerely ask all those who read this to give me feedbacks and suggest names of more places that i should try. Actually the next time might be very soon because writing this I started missing Goa. Another place I highly recommend in Panjim is Sher e Punjab! I didn't put it here on this list because it doesn't serve Goan cuisine but their food is good. There is also a little surprise for people from Kolkata here, if you miss the egg dal tadka from the streets of Kolkata then remember you get it in Sher e Punjab! It is not as good but something is better than nothing right! Will end this here but please feel free to suggest me more places that you feel serve Goa on a plate!
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